A museum and a maze of a market in Kumasi

In order to beat the gridlock of traffic in this metropolis of five million, there was an early start to get to the Manhyia Palace Museum. The palace was built in by the British in 1925 as a residence for the King of the Ashanti Kingdom. Smartly, the Ashanti did not accept the palace as a gift, they bought it.

Before our guided tour, there was a short film which explained the long history of the kingdom and the hierarchy of the chiefs and King. The Ashanti is still the largest kingdom in Ghana.

The symbol of the Ashanti flag has an eagle, a python and a crocodile symbolizing strength in the air, water and land. The three bands represent gold for mineral wealth, black for the Ashanti people and green for the dense forests.

Ashanti flag

Another icon which is often seen is the red porcupine (Kotoko in Ashanti). The gold background represents the wealth of the kingdom and the porcupine symbol stems from a proverb “the porcupine fights from all angles”, the Ashanti are always ready to fight their enemies.

Ashanti porcupine symbol

Today’s King resides in a private residence behind the palace. No photos are allowed in the palace museum, the rooms are filled with original furnishings and artwork including gifts to past leaders, photos with world leaders and wax figures of the past Kings and Queen mothers. Recently, the Victoria and Albert museum in London and other European museums have “loaned” several important pieces of royal gold regalia that the British looted during their colonization. Hopefully, these pieces will be permanently repatriated.

Back to the buzz of the city center, the Kejetia Central Market in Kumasi is gigantic. It is several floors of sensory overload, plus outdoor stalls which line the surrounding streets. Most likely, if you need something, you can find it at the market. There are aisles filled with fabrics and also aisles of tailors at their sewing machines ready to alter or create a garment for you. The sheer volume of the place was amazing. I spotted a few mannequins that were both creepy and fantastic.

After the extreme tumult and energy at the market, we headed to an artist market area. There were shops with handicrafts and pottery and weaving studios. It was great to meander through the shops and to talk with the artisans that were working.

Potter at the wheel
Weaving studio
Four Kente being produced simultaneously on a modern loom

Meandering in a maze of a metropolis made for another magical day.

Leave a comment