Sauna, Porvoo and an Elite treat

Finland has a standout tradition which sets it apart from the rest of the Nordic countries; sauna. There are 3.3 million public and private saunas among a population of 5.4 million people. Sauna is part of Finnish daily life. It is great to sweat then plunge into icy water then repeat, three times. The plunge is quite shocking. I did not scream like the woman ahead of me, also, I did not calculate that 7°C is 44°F (nippy to say the least)… no photos to document my first icy plunge, it will not be my last. When in Finland, sauna. A few of the public saunas in Helsinki have wonderful cafes and great city and Baltic Sea views.

Refreshed from the sauna, we headed to Finland’s second oldest city. Porvoo is a forty minute drive north east of Helsinki. Before taking the walk along the river to the old town, we stopped at the Brunberg Chocolate factory to check out the delicious local delights. We were not disappointed. There is a wide variety of chocolates and a Finland favorite salted licorice. (not my favorite).

Making the truffles
The many choices of chocolate
Old chocolate vending machines on display
Black salted licorice

Fortified, our next stop at the edge of the old town was the home-turned museum of J.L. Runeberg. The home became a museum in 1882 and is in remarkable shape. The house plants are cuttings from the originals. Runeberg is the national poet of Finland. Included among his many works is the Finnish National Anthem. His wife, Fredrika, was also a journalist and author plus she maintained a beautiful garden which included medicinal herbs. Legend has it that Fredrika created a special mini almond cake with a raspberry and cream top to inspire the writings of her husband. On the 5th of February each year the entire country of Finland eats this cake to celebrate Runeberg’s birthday. The rest of the year, the only place to find this cake is in Porvoo.

The Runeberg home
The national anthem of Finland
Appeared he also liked killing foxes
Notice the Runeberg cakes on the counter

Yes, we went to Cafe Fanny’s to have a coffee and a Runeberg cake.

Top view of the cake

Fortified once again…we explored the picturesque and compact old town. There are a plethora of dollhouse like buildings that contain cafes and shops which line the cobblestone streets. The river is edged with red-ochre buildings that look like a postcard.

We returned to Helsinki and took a walk along the Helsinki’s Esplanadi Park (Espa). This is a narrow strip of green space that runs from the fancy shopping district to the waterfront. It’s a great path for a walk, or to sit and people watch. It is filled with flowers, sculptures and benches. There are plenty of restaurants and shops feet away. The banners must change often, I am guessing August is mushroom foraging season even for the birds.

There is always room for dinner, especially when the days are extra long. Elite restaurant has a special occasion vibe the minute you step inside. The restaurant has been serving seasonal Finnish food in the same location since 1932. It attracts celebrities, locals and tourists. The menu says the paintings on the walls were paid for, but the story the staff tells is that some were payment for meals. Either way, they add to the fine dining atmosphere. We had fish dishes that were prepared beautifully. Pike Wallenberg and grilled whitefish plus a shrimp, salmon and cucumber appetizer and dessert was a house special chocolate and strawberry creation

Shrimp, smoked salmon and cucumber salad
Grilled white fish
Pike Wallenberg
Even mashed potatoes are elegant
Strawberry chocolate spectacular

Filled with Finnish delights there will be sweet dreams planning another day of adventures.

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