There are verdant views of champagne vineyards as the train heads to Reims, a charming city in the center of the champagne district of France. Our lunchtime arrival brought us to Cafe du Palais, a family owned and run bistro near the Cathedral; it is filled with the family’s eclectic art collection and tasty food. At the suggestion of our waiter we paired a small vineyard’s champagne with a variety of grilled sandwiches, a local cake similar to but better than pound cake, and an apple tart. Yes, champagne goes well with all food groups.
The Reims Cathedral was damaged during WWI but was restored to its original beauty by the generosity of the Rockefeller family. There are several rose windows and groupings of contemporary stained glass windows designed by well known artists including Imi Knoebel and Marc Chagall. Close to the alter there is a series of windows which were installed in the twentieth century but prepared in the medieval style. These windows show the complex production of champagne, a nice tribute to the local region. The Cathedral is also treasured because more than twenty-five French Kings were coronated there.
At the entrance to the local farmer’s market an accordion player and his dog set a stereotypical French scene. The fresh fruit, produce and all other delicacies made me drool and yes, we did purchase and consume.
Wandering around the center of town included many historic sites including Roman chalk caves, an arch that is from the Third Century and buildings of many architectural styles. Scattered throughout the city are some very famous Champagne houses and a library built in an art deco style donated by the Carnegie family.
All these Champagne sightings led us back into the town to Le Pressoir; part wine cellar, part wine bar, part wine store. We walked through their vast cellar and then enjoyed great champagne, wine and snacks (we made a few purchases here too!).
Reims is a walkable town with a plenty to appreciate especially when there are plenty of bubbles.
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