Sunrise without rain was a sign to head to the Fushimi Inari Shrine on the outskirts of Kyoto. According to tour guides, the earlier the better.
The shrine dates back to 711, before Kyoto was a capital city. There is a legend about a rice cake turning into a swan on the top of the mountain where rice is planted. There was an imperial order to enshrine the mountain. The shrine has been worshiped as a god of abundant harvest, prosperous business, family safety, and the fulfillment of various wishes.
The first twenty to thirty minutes of the vermillion Torii gates shrine climb is sloped and easy. There are several small shrine buildings and altars to worship at as well as some short detour hikes with no gates. I took a few to be rewarded with a lake and bamboo outcrops.
The white fox (invisible fox) is the assigned messenger for the inari god. This is why there are many statues and images of foxes everywhere. There are cookies and crackers for sale in the shape of foxes as well. There are no real foxes in this part of Japan.
Many of the thousands of gates have no markings, however for donations of varying amounts, it is possible to have an engraving on a gate post.
Just when you believe you are reaching the top of the gates, there is a split in the path and a small sign with a hand written note 40 minutes to the top. And now, it gets steep!
There is another break in the gates offering a panoramic view of Kyoto and a perfect place to catch your breath.
There is a path that circles the top of Mt Inari which seems uphill all the way around, worth every step of another 30-40 minutes.
On the way down, I took another detour and caught a Sakura cherry blossom.
After the couple of hours-long climb and hike around the mountain, another onsen visit was in order. Of course, the afternoon brought rain and cooler weather.
We walked around the Nishiki Market which is covered. The market has been in operation more than 500 years. There are seasonal produce, as well as unique items for kitchen use. Many shops cook the food for you on the spot. There are polite requests for all visitors to obey:
- Please do not walk through the market while eating under any circumstances. There is a risk of causing troubles such as staining other customers’ clothing in the crowded market.
- Please consume your purchases in front of the shop or inside the shop.
The market piqued our appetite and we decided on an early dinner. Each side street and all the main avenues are filled with small restaurants, there are many options to choose from. We picked one with a cute cartoon chef outside. Turns out it really looks like the Chef! Fukura restaurant has just a counter with eight seats. The chef and his wife speak no English. Google translate is a miracle. There is an initial question about a drink and a starter (beer or sake; fish or meat) after…the courses are decided by the chef.
Each course was a treat. The plating design, the the unique pairings and the delicious fresh flavors were outstanding. Most of the dishes were explained with almost accurate translation. The sashimi included sea bream, bonito, shrimp, konjac, tuna, squid and salmon. Three sakes were chosen. Two dry and cold, one red and thick like brandy. All added umami to the meal.
The two local fans at the end of the counter had a meat meal and were deep into a sake and beer party. It was fun to make up our own backstory of their evening.
Our meal lasted over two hours and will last forever in our memories. A special night in Kyoto.
Where is Wendy 